Pantelleria- Sicilian Island, North African Vibes, Jetset Milanese chíc

The only reason I even know of the island of Pantelleria is thanks to the movie, A Bigger Splash that my friend Roslyn told me to watch.  It’s one of the most random movies I have ever seen about a group of adults wanting to sleep with each other’s significant others while on vacation in a fabulous villa on the Sicilian island of Pantelleria… completely random, as I said. But the cinematography was beautiful and without knowledge, you would have had no idea that is was, in fact, an Italian island at all. (Which made me, as a travel addict and part-time Italian resident, extremely curious.) Since I had fallen in love with the Aeolian Islands the year before I was totally down to try another Sicilian island, especially one so close to Africa that I think most people have never heard of.

What You Need to Know About Pantelleria

The majority of the visitors on the island are Italian and from the north of Italy. A cool, well dressed, wealthier kind of Italian. For most of them, it’s not their first time there… they have been coming here frequently for years and clearly, they like to keep this place a secret for themselves. They have an air about them something similar to a New Yorker whose parents have a summer home in the Hamptons. In fact, it’s not at all as “hippy” as I had imagined. My sequined multi-colored Thai kimono definitely stood out amongst a restaurant full of ‘over the should’ white cashmere sweaters.

The island has no sand beaches. A “beach” for Pantelleria is huge rocks by the water that you usually have to hike down to get to, with access to the sea. This weeds out the lazies who are looking for a beach club to sip white wine for lunch (quite opposite of the island of Capri).

Pantelleria is not cheap. Since it is an island where everything is imported, you will find simple things to be much more expensive than mainland Italy. (Except wine, they have tons of wineries on the island which produce amazing grapes and that is always quite cheap).

You must rent a car. It is the only way to get around. There are one-lane country roads all over the island. The driving is quite easy except at night, as there are not many street lights and the roads are really small.

It is known to be a love it or hate it kind of place… It’s very windy, the beaches are definitely not easy, you will for sure get lost the first few days, and the dammusi (typical Pantelleria homes) are a far stretch from a normal comfortable BnB. With that being said, I fell in love with this place. It has a special vibe that is so attractive. Kind of like -you feel cooler in life for being there and enjoying it. Giorgio Armani has a villa there also, so you know it can’t be all that bad.

Best Bars and Restaurants in Pantelleria

2 Palme: Best restaurant ever. Little tricky to find but sincerely amazing and not very expensive. The owner, Antonio is a lovely fellow who makes his own wine and will sit and talk with you all night if you can speak Italian. We were so lucky that this happened to be a 10-minute starry night walk from our apartment. It was also so good that we ended up there 3 out of 7 nights.  The chef deserves a Michelin star. Innovative, fantastic, delicious food.

Shurhuq: Best lunch and aperitivo. An awesome seaside spot in the center of the west coast of the island. The only place that has sunbeds on the sea. A hip scene for lunch and for aperitivo they serve amazing olives, homemade panelle (lightly fried chickpea flour) and wine. Perfect sunset, pre-dinner spot.

Sesiventi: Another (but must-do) sunset rooftop bar. Not your typical rooftop bar, this is a white stucco curvy roof covered in pillows where everyone sits to see an epic sunset barefoot for aperitivo. They serve a lot of Sicilian snacks and a drink for 15 euros per person. No shoes allowed.

La Nicchia bar: Sunset terrace bar connected to a well-known restaurant, La Nicchia. Did I mention that sunset aperitivo is the thing to do here on this island?? Posh Moroccan themed bar with carpets and poufs perched up above the sea with perfect sunset view in the town of Scauri.

Altamarea: Definitely the nicest restaurant on the island. Really chíc, pretty expensive and you will feel like you are at the new restaurant that just opened in South Hampton. The food is average, the place is beautiful, the scene is cool. Great for a special night out. They have a cool rooftop bar next door that ends the night properly.

Sikelia: The only luxury hotel on the island. Completely 5 stars and stunning. You can go as a non-hotel guest for aperitivo or dinner. I suggest the aperitivo rooftop sunset. During peak season, try to make a reservation. Expensive but worth it. It’s really fabulous.

What to do in Pantelleria

Benikulà Grotto:  A natural hot sauna in a cave in the mountains. It’s incredibly hot steam coming out of the cracks in the rocks, inside a pitch-black small cave, can you believe that!? It’s the thing to do, take a short hike up the mountain, strip down to a swimsuit and hang in a pitch-black, 100-degree cave with a bunch of strangers. You can’t see anyone so you will never know who you’re talking or (literally) bumping into. I suggest sunset time as the view from up in the mountains overlooking the coastline is amazing.

Lago Specchio di Venere: (Venus’ mirror Lake) Another one of Mother Nature’s magical gifts. It’s a huge, 3 toned aqua-colored sulfur mud lake. Sounds weird to me too, and it wasn’t at the top of my list until I went there towards the end of our trip. Just go there and see for yourself. It has to be experienced to understand the magic.

Best Swimming Spot in Pantelleria 

Balata dei Turchi: Prettiest swimming location surrounded by large flat rocks. Find yourself a flat one to lay on bring a panini, a book, and a thick towel or beach mat. Just beware of the jellyfish.