This is dedicated to all my hippy-at-heart friends especially from my old home town in Pennsylvania, and lovers of a real off the grid holiday. You know who you are.
Not to be confused with Koh Phangan, the full moon island from the movie ‘The Beach’, Koh Phayam may be the exact opposite of that.
After days of searching online and asking every expat in Bangkok, I finally found what I had been searching for. An island off the ever-so-badly beaten path of young, drunk kids (which I too once was at one time of life) lies an island to the south-west of the main land where there are no cars, no wi-fi, and no ATM’s. If this scares the shit out of you, please refer back to my Capri guide and buy a ticket to Italy.
This island has been here for a long time and in fact it’s exactly the same as when the hippies from 1962 came here. The local people that live here are Thai Rastas. Skinny little Thai dudes with a head full of heavier dreadlocks than their body weight. Bob Marley is played on repeat all day, every day, from each cafe and bar and the carefree attitude is contagious. Besides Bob Marley, this island has an insane amount of cashew trees naturally growing and all day you hear the sound of big balls smashing loudly onto the ground. It’s the walnut sacks that fall from the trees, be careful while walking, you may get hit in the head. The island is also very close to Burma therefore has tons of delicious Burmese Vegan restaurants (shacks). If you are a hippy, vegetarian loving, beach bum, Koh Phayam is the place for you!
Please note that marijuana is illegal in Thailand. I am not promoting spending your next ten years in a Thai prison camp, with that being said, smoke at your own risk. …But I never saw any trouble or police on the island of Koh Phayam.
Beaches
Aow Yai
There are only two main beaches, the big beach “Aow Yai” is the main long beach with tons of beach front restaurants and the perfect beach to take long walks along the shore especially at sunset. It’s also the place to go at night if you are bored and looking for a little fun. You have to look out for the flyers posted on the trees in the daytime that have the beach bar party of the night. Those are really fun to dance all night drinking beer under the moon, barefoot in the sand.
Aow Khao Kwai
The other beach is down a beautiful jungle path in the middle of the island called “Aow Khao Kwai” (Buffalo Bay) It’s more secluded and more European young families but a nice chill beach and nicer water. There are a few small beach front shacks and a little bar on the north end. On the same stretch of beach but on the other side of the rocks that you have to get to by scooter, there’s one amazing bar that is definitely not to be missed called Hippy Bar (not Hippies Bar at the end of the big beach). This bar is made entirely out of ply wood. Some Thai hippies starting building this in the 60’s by hand and it is a must-see to believe. Not sure if they were trying to confuse everyone by naming the two best bars basically the same name or they were just high. Who knows?
Monkey beach
There is another beach called Monkey beach which is a little harder to get to, with nothing but natural beach beautiful sea and sand and monkeys. Rent a motor scooter from the pier when you arrive or there are scooter rentals available at the end of the street by the entrance to the main beach and also by the vegan cafe Cha Chai Home
Where to Stay
PHUREE HUT IS AMAZING. One would think when visiting an island you should stay on a beach, I thought the same. I booked online from Bangkok on Booking.com out of last-minute panic, one of the few places left that was in the middle of the island in the jungle. I reserved only two nights thinking I would find something myself once I had arrived on the beach. After the first night I begged the Thai owner to let me stay all seven nights. It’s in the jungle at the top of the hill perfectly perched up between the two beaches. It’s a beautiful walk to either beach. Ten minutes through a jungle path to the quiet one, or fifteen on a paved path to the big one. I absolutely loved it. It’s made entirely of bamboo, every inch, from the floor to the door, and only a white bed covered with a mosquito net. You need nothing else. It’s great. There is even a sea view over the hill. For all other options check booking.com or airbnb.
Note that the downside of staying on the beach is that at sunset giant white mosquitos come out of nowhere and surround you. It seems as if it is snowing mosquitos. It’s quite gross. Another down side to the beach huts is that it’s much busier and noisier. Each bungalow is one on top of another. But, again, if you want to meet people and have a small fiesta, you should probably go to the beach.
Where to Eat
There are so many little restaurants but these two are an iconic musts and hip gatherings on the island. Cha Chai Home is up the hill 30 min walk from the main beach. Veganism at it’s best. Everyone comes here for lunch or dinner. Amazing Grain bowls, salad bowls, veggie burgers and smoothies. Also has all types of vegan milk for your morning cappuccino or ice latte. The owner is a beautiful British soul who also teaches yoga and meditation classes.
Baan Nam Cha is great Burmese Vegan very close to the main big beach. Excellent food and Hip hangout scene for lunch and dinner. All the cool kids gather here. Skinny funny Thai Rasta and his in-charge British wife run the show.
Yoga
Just down that paved path to the big beach, 5 min before there is a sweet little yoga/ art studio made by a Swiss girl named Tanja and her Thai artist husband. She has classes almost every day in season at 9 am with different teachers. Some are more meditative, some are more yoga, all are fantastic. It’s a gem if you want some zen in your life. (Make sure to go or email a day or 2 before to reserve a spot because she fills up most days) PhayamYoga.com
Getting there and around
There are direct flights almost daily from Bangkok to Ranong. Tickets are under $100 USD and one hour and twenty minutes one-way. There are long overnight busses and trains but that is just crazy and you are not a backpacker, that’s why you are coming here and not going to Koh Phangan. From Ranong you will find people in the airport to sell you the transport (bus-boat) ticket to the island. Trust them, they are not robbing you. It’s about $10 USD and they will take you where you need to be. Once you arrive at the tiny harbor the boat will take you and a bunch of other people on a one hour boat ride to the magical island of Koh Phayam.
Upon arrival there are scooters for rent. There are no cars on the island, only scooters therefore almost everyone (except me) rents a scooter. They are cheap and the best way to get around. There are also moto-taxi’s you can jump on the back of for a few dollars but I chose to walk and hitch-hike which was my own private adventure of insanity. It’s definitely possible and can be very fun but probably more convenient to get a scooter, especially if there are two of you traveling together.
Fabulous Article on Koh Phayam.
Is there transport on the island for families ? I have seen some tractors on some videos yet unsure how we would get around the island (2 adults and 2 kids) . Thx Jonathan
The last time I was there was 2 years ago and moto was the only transport. You would each rent one and drive the kids. They are very cheap. Hope this helps.