Puglia Guide, Italy’s Other Coast

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Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare

Puglia is in the eastern bottom coast of Italy where we refer to as “the heel of the boot”.  If you’ve heard of Puglia before it’s probably thanks to Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel’s wedding they had there in 2012.  (Madonna is also a fan.)  Puglia is the opposite of the Amalfi Coast, almost like if Florida became cool and was taken over by old Italians.  The miles of vast flat land covered by olive trees, the dramatic aqua blue sea, and the fresh, cheap seafood are making this east coast Italian area a dream holiday destination.

The Best Parts of Puglia

Savelletri

Savelletri and its surrounding area is the most chic part of Puglia and one of the easiest to get to which makes it the most popular to foreign tourists.  The masserias (old olive oil farmhouses) have been converted into luxury villas and 5 star resorts. Some of the best Italian restaurants reside in this area.  Savelletri, as well as the rest of Puglia coast is lined with an endless number of sea-side beach clubs.  You can find everything from simple shacks to club music.

Locorotondo

This might be the cutest town in the world.  Imagine tall alley ways completely painted white with little flower boxes perfectly dripping touches of color off of each of their balconies.  It’s so fucking cute that the town actually has a competition of whose balcony is the cutest.  No joke.  And they are numbered and have a map.  It’s the perfect spot for a day trip to walk around taking every photo-op you can find, and then ending with a fabulous lunch at Bina, or U Curdunn.  These are two of the white, elegantly designed restaurants in the center of town.

 

Monopoli

Similar to Locorotondo, in the sense that it’s also super cute and all white, Monopoli is the new up and coming town in Puglia.  In fact, at the time of this writing, the entire city is basically for sale.  The plus being that this town already has a new abundance of hip restaurants, bars and shops, AND it’s on the sea.  I predict this town will be the new hot spot in the next few years.  If anyone is looking to buy an investment property abroad, this may be your golden ticket.

Santa Cesarea Terme

Bagno Marino Archi Puglia
Bagno Marino Archi
Santa Cesarea Terme
Santa Cesarea Terme
Santa Cesarea free beach
Santa Cesarea free beach

This is a tiny beach town that hosts some of the most breathtaking beaches I have ever seen.  It’s a slow town with not much to do, but the beaches and beach clubs are unbeatable.  There is a thermal spa beach club called Terme di Santa Cesarea which has a sulfur pool perched up in the rocks above the sea.  Above the tanning bed area there is a full service spa.  Please note in summer to book spa appointments at least one day before.  Bagno Marino Archi is an awesome beach club to spend a full day of sunning, swimming and have a huge pizza for lunch.  (This is the only pizza I would ever have outside of Naples.)  It’s delicious and part of the beach club atmosphere is to eat while wearing a bikini on your beach chair, straight out of the pizza box.  Sooo Italian.

My all time favorite beach is pictured below on the right called Spiaggia di Porto Miggiano.  This is honestly one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen.  I found it on instagram and swore it was photo-shopped until I went myself.  Bring your own food and drinks because it’s a natural beach with no vendors (probably why it still looks like this).  It is a 5 min walk down the steps, very easy access, with the choice to lay on the sand or the stretch of large rocks.

Porto Badisco

This ultra tiny town (if you can call it that) is just north of Santa Cesarea known for some of the best sea urchins in Italy.  There is a local town restaurant called Le Taiate.  Very modest to say the least, but if you call or message them in advance, they will reserve for you as many sea urchins as you can swallow.  If you are not familiar with sea urchins, they are the Italian caviar of the south.  You can eat them raw, with a little lemon, or cooked in a pasta.  It’s a must try when in Italy or Greece and if you hate them at least you can take an interesting  instagram pic.  There is also a cute beach along side of a grotto and another on the opposite side of the bay.  Behind the grotto there is an amazing cafe/ bar called Skafè  that a stop here mid afternoon will really make you feel like you are living the dream.  DJ, cocktails and yachts floating by… La Dolce Vita.

Marina di Novaglie

Lo Scalo
Lo Scalo restaurant

The only reason to come all the way down here is a very good one, Ristorante Lo Scalo is one of my favorite places in Italy.  This fabulous beach club is what Italian dreams are made of.  The decor is Italian coastal style, blue and white with cacti and bougainvillea accents.  I especially love that they have a tribute to Jude Law and Siena Miller as a couple with photos covering an inside wall, commemorating that one time they came and spent the day there.  Regardless of that, the water is amazing, and the restaurant above has a stunning sea view of kids leaping off high rocks on repeat.  Beautiful atmosphere serving gourmet food and great wine.  There is also a total shack across the rock, when you just want to have a unfancy  beer with the locals.  I like to do both.  And in that order.

This is not the common list of ‘Where to go in Puglia’ but this is Lylita’s Way therefore I highly recommend each and every spot.  The others that will commonly come up in search are Otranto, Ostuni, Alberobello, Polignano a Mare and Gallipoli.  These are all very nice places but have become overwhelmed by the common tourist and mostly Italian families.  If you would like to see the Trulli’s in Alberobello they are worth a quick visit but if you just drive north of Savelletri you can see them naturally and in their raw element scattered throughout the hills.  Alberobello is basically the Disneyland of Trullis’.

 

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